Friday, May 4, 2012

Swen


           Every year The University of Alabama welcomes hundreds of international students from Europe, South America, Africa, and Asia.   This five percent of UA students are far away from home, yet they form their own groups, make new friends, and enjoy American college life just like the other students.  Despite this, it is sometimes hard to adapt to American customs, so each of these groups usually tries to find a place to replicate some feeling of home.  For some, the best that can be done is networking with the other students, and others find some local restaurant that serves something that reminds them of home.   For many of the Chinese students, that place is, surprisingly, Swen .
            Swen is by no means a traditional Chinese restaurant.  It is essentially just another restaurant with fried rice, syrup-covered pieces of battered chicken, and fortune cookies, your typical “American Chinese” restaurant.  When you first walk in the small restaurant, your senses are immediately overloaded with the scent of these stereotypical foods, the egg rolls and beef lao mein, all sprinkled with MSG, and the restaurant itself doesn’t even seem to try hard to fool you.  Rather than walls lined with fake Chinese paintings or paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling, there is nothing but tan wallpaper stamped with brown elephants climbing up the high walls only to end next to a bare ceiling.  It’s furnished with plain, worn, black and red tables and booths, and there is no attempt to create the illusion that there are Chinese chefs leading the kitchen in the back; you can often hear the cooks in the kitchen speak Spanish  as they take orders from the waiters.  Whatever it is that you notice, it is easy to tell that Swen is an American style Chinese food restaurant.  So why would the Chinese exchange students flock to it?
            The only reason that I can fathom is that, though not traditional, Swen does carry a few authentic Chinese dishes.  One in particular is a spicy dish with vegetables and different types of meat.  (There are beef, fish, and fish and tofu varieties.)  This dish caters to the Chinese students.  The meal isn’t displayed on the menu, but rather it is posted on the front door in Chinese with a rough English translation.  Because of this, I don’t even know the actual name of the dish.  I just call it by its translated name, boiled beef bowl.
            This dish is rather different from the rest of Swen’s menu, and perhaps that is why it is not on the menu .  Though the dish uses the same red peppers and same cuts of beef, both ingredients are utilized in different ways.  The red peppers are infused into oil that is drizzled on top of the soup and the beef is boiled in the soup along with numerous vegetables in order to cook it.  The soup comes with a side of rice.  You’re not supposed to eat it like normal American food.  That is, you can’t just eat it with a fork like Mongolian beef and you can’t just sip it with a spoon like the egg drop soup. Rather, the soup is much better suited for chopsticks.  Most of the Chinese students use their chopsticks to scoop vegetables out onto the rice and then eat the rice and vegetables together.  This is probably not obvious to the American diner; it has to be inferred from watching the Chinese students eat .  The dish is also much spicier than anything else Swen has to offer. Some of the Chinese students order extra oil in their soup, which can separate even further from the regular menu.
            Swen doesn’t have many more authentic Chinese dishes.  In fact, many of the Chinese students will only eat the boiled beef soup and its varieties.  With the amount of business that Swen receives from Chinese exchange students, one would think they would try to expand their menu.  I, for one, am disappointed.  Swen has the capability to recreate more of these types of dishes, but they have neglected to do so for some inconceivable reason.  Can you imagine a Chinese restaurant in Tuscaloosa that exhibits all the variety that traditional Chinese cuisine has to offer?  Though not Chinese food, Ruan Thai and Surin present an interesting comparison relevant to the dilemma Swen food displays.   Both restaurants serve Thai food, sort of.  Surin serves an American twist of Thai food, while claiming to be Thai food.  Ruan Thai, on the other hand, serves authentic Thai food and has consistently received better reviews that Surin.  I feel like this may be due to the marketing of the authenticity of the food rather than the marketing for the assurance that American palates will approve of the menu.    Swen has offered as taste of this authenticity only to stop short of being something truly great.  I have been provided with a taste of a culture, but have not been given the means to fully understand it.  Maybe this is why I am so disappointed.
            This may explain why the Chinese students are not clawing at the doors of Swen asking for more authentic food.  They understand their own culture.  They just want a reminder of it.  Rather than wanting a whole array of dishes, the students want a taste of home, something to connect them.  I talk about this all the time, but I’ve rarely been on the other side of things.  When I go to a Japanese restaurant, if I can get at least one authentic-tasting item, I’m happy.  Being able to feel that connection the food provides is more important than being able to stuff yourself on a completely authentic meal.  I feel Swen understood this and decided to undertake the task of providing a taste of home to these students.  So many Chinese students would flock to the restaurant only to be disappointed and longing for some taste of home.  Now, they can go to a place and experience a small, but important connection that provides them with some sense of comfort .

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